Sesriem Namibia, sits at the threshold of one of Africa's most surreal landscapes, where a natural canyon carved by an ancient river leads you straight into the world's oldest desert. This article is worth reading because it tells you exactly what to expect when you roll through the Sesriem gate on a small-group safari, climb into a 4x4 shuttle bound for the dunes of Sossusvlei, and shuffle across Deadvlei's blinding white clay pan in the early morning heat. No glossy brochure language, just what it actually felt like.